Sunday, November 3, 2013

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat - Part 7

My last full day here at Siem Reap.

I awake early, but my departure time today isn't until 9am. Still, I'm awake, so I gather my traveling bag and go down for breakfast. Yeah, I had a shower etc before leaving. Need to start the day all fresh. It won't last too long, it's going to be a hot one.

During breakfast, I attempt to do a bit of catchup on this blog. I'm so far behind. I write this, while also adding text to my previous day's blog. I decide I while try my best to write as I go. Let's see how that goes.

The plan for today is to travel by car quite a distance from town. Three temples, Bahteay Samre, Banteay Srey and Beng Mealea. The last one of with is apparently still engulfed by the jungle. I'm so looking forward to that. Then down south to the lake and check out the floating village. Yes you read that right. Not all temples today!

My blog is going to evolve a little bit. I will try and set it out into sections corresponding to the temples. Relevent photos will be at the end of each section, and they will have a comment or the like. Let me know what you think.

Banteay Samre

The first is quite small, and I move through this one relatively quickly. I don't want to say more of what I have already seen, but, without being able to see it yourself, I wouldn't be able to explain the slight differences.

Banteay Srey

Next, Banteay Srey. Well, this would have to be the most organized and set out display yet. There is a visitors centre, site display with all the history and restoration information and old photos. This was worth the visit alone. Interestingly, this temple was not commissioned by the Royals. It was done by an influential person who was close to the Royal Family. Not as many people trying to sell all the tourist stuff here. They have a well spaced out little market place in the grounds. Very organized, and they don't hassle you as much for a sale. I squeezed in an ice coffee before venturing to my next site.

Carvings around main entrance.
Carvings around main entrance.
Replaced statues.

Beng Mealea

It was a reasonably long drive to the last temple of the day. I'm told to expect something special during this visit. Beng Mealea, is the temple still covered in undergrowth, and has basically had no restoration done, other than stabilizing the area for safety. I have been looking forward to this site since it was explained to me.

Before venturing into the temple area, it was suggested by my driver, Lucky, to have lunch. It was already well after noon, and I had been at it for a while. He pointed me off in the right direction for food, and I sat down with a local dish, that filled the spot nicely. More water, and I was physically prepared for the trek.

It started with a longish walk along a path that seemed to be earth covering the uneven stones used in the construction of the entrance. Un expectantly, through an opening in the jungle, the main gate appeared. It's crumbled state showed no sign of an actual way to proceed, but off to the right side, a set of wooden steps and been erected. A few local guides gathered around them, urged me to their location. My information book that I had purchased at Angkor Wat, and given me the clues as to hiring a local guide. Because of he state of this sight, it required walking through a maze of collapse galleries and such, and only would you experience it all with their help.

A funny little guy, whose name I would never be able to pronounce, attached himself to me. So off with his ever repeated "be careful, be careful" and broken, limited English we went. Straight into the bowels of the destruction and mayhem of the ruinous buildings. My pitiful description of my trail, could never do any justice for what unfolded at every turn and climb. Through tunnels so dark you could not even see your hand in front of you. I like to call it my Indiana Jones adventure, because that is what it felt to me. I did certainly save the best for last. This is my idea of a ruin temple.

My guide took me every this way and that, when I thought we had come to the end, we moved off another way. Our journey lasted almost 4 hours! I thought I was exhausted before, but now, well words escape me. My shirt drenched with perspiration, I must have looked a sight. Although there where other visitors here, they were few and far between. I felt we almost had the place to ourselves. When we did pass, they stared at me with curiosity. Their tours didn't required such effort I'm sure.

So it did finish, and I paid my guide his asking of USD 10.00. Well worth it in my books. I staggered back to waiting Lucky. His beaming smile showed that I had met my expectations of this visit.

Lunch time.
The collapsed entrance.
My guide being a monkey climbing the wall vines.
Beneith the labyrinth.
Looking for Indy.

The Drive Back

As we drove away, some bad news. As my tour had taken much longer that expected, Lucky didn't think we would have time for the floating village. It was to be a long drive south, past Siem Reap itself, and he thought that as the roads are not in very good condition, we woulded make it in time to fully experience the village before night fall. As there was a required boat ride to see the whole area, he added that it's expensive and would have to be rushed. Although disappointed, I thought it good of him to explain the problem and give an alternative. He asked if I would like to go a bit off the beaten taken on our return to Siem Reap. I excepted his suggestion, and with a right turn, into the true country side we ventured.

I was a bit apprehensive at first by being taken out of the normal tourist area with someone I had only known for a sort while. But this soon passed as Lucky gave me insight into his country as we travelled. He had already spoken of his life as a soldier and his work life.

The roads we travelled were in such disrepair. Maybe they should have had the workers of years gone past,mas on the temples. They might have lasted a bit longer. The country side vista changed to that of fields of rice and fruit trees. The dwellings made of bamboo and leave walls thinned until no sign of life bar a few water buffaloes. We came to a small village. Here small groups a children played in the dirt. Laughter and smiles. A more simple way of life.

The bumps in the road continued and for some time I sat quietly just taking it all in. We where stopped by some Monks. They where collecting money for road repairs. I gladly gave my token. Perhaps, at another time, I would pass this way and benefit from my gift.

After being steadly shaken for hours, we made it back to the main road and drove towards Siem Reap. Suddenly, quite unexpected, Lucky Invited me back to his home for dinner. Unsure how to respond, I quickly accepted. He phoned his girlfriend to instruct her I would becoming, and to prepare some local dishes.

We returned to the hotel about 5:30 pm, and made arrangements to be collect at 7:30.

Dinner and a Night Out

I showed and changed. When the appointed time was approaching, I made my way down the the foyer. While waiting, I was met by my Tuk Tuk drive, Nigh. We spoke of my upcoming dinner appointment and if I would require his services the next day. We arranged for him to t.ake me to the airport. lucky arrived, but needed some time for business matters. He was always organizing something over the phone. Soon we left and a short drive later arrived at is home.

The area was very dark. Up a small lane, and into a housing complex made up of numerous small rooms. A group of small puppies played in the sand. Almost imediately I was great by his girlfriend and ushered into their home. A small single room with bed, small table and no chairs. I told them I was fine with the foor for sitting, but Lucky quickly gathered some crates for a makeshift chair. We chatted for a while until another of their friends arrive. We chatted more until his girlfriend arrived. 5 of us together in the small room, we ate, drank some of the local home brew rice wine, and talked.

The small was made full with 5 or 6 dishes of food. I was informed that these where some traditional types that up country village people ate daily. There was several fish, a beef and several veritable dishes. The aroma and flavors was very different from what I had been eating at the restaurants around the place. Strong and, well, just better. Food, beer, rice wine, and more food.

Lucky and Girlfriend ready for Halloween.

About and hour and a half later, the food mostly gone, I was further invited to go out with them to celebrate Halloween. Of fto another home first for a bit of face painting to get us ready, then to The Temple Club. This place was in full swing. Numerous beers, lots of loud music and dancing, the night came to a close. Another late night. I managed to find my way back to the hotel, and quickly fell to sleep.

A wonderful day.

 

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